When I finally decided to take this trip to Bmore I found all the hotels within a reasonable distance to the conference center were completely booked. After some creative searching I found a hostel fairly close, with a bed, and only $25/night! I know that many people have this negative impression of hostels. I will also admit that for the modest traveler they are not ideal. I have stayed in hostels before, in NY and Vancouver. I know what its like but for a simple place to sleep and shower I find it acceptable. The hostel in Baltimore is described as occupying an old mansion. It has been recently updated with new private bathrooms, lounge area, and modern kitchen. This placed has all these things. It also has a display of "art" in the common area. The art has a extremely dark motif, like Tim Burton and Steven King took a community art class together and had to collaborate on their final project. One of the pictures is of a couple sitting at opposite ends of a large dinning room table. They both look like quasi-human dolls. The wife has her head on the table with blood leaking from her ear to a puddle, she stares blankly forward. The husband has his wine glass up in a toast, he has no eyes, void dark spots fill his ocular cavity. It gives the room and building a nice cozy feeling that encourages comfort and a sound nights sleep. Even still, the sheets are clean, the bathrooms are spotless, and the building is secure.
After picking my bunk, top of course, and unloading my things I went out to discover the city. I heard about this local bar that is acclaimed for the great selection of fine beer. I walked there with a new friend, Jacob, staying in my room, and presenting some research at the conference. Our entire basis for choosing each other for company was based on the fact we both sported the same complimentary messenger bag for registering for the scientific forums. He has turned out to be an intelligent, funny and relaxed friend. So there we are, complete strangers having a pint together. This situation repeats itself often in my life. I had contacted some couch surfers from Baltimore for advice with touring the city. One of them, Michael, met us at the Brew Art and took us out for a driving tour of the city. He showed us all the sections of town and gave good facts and stories as well. There are all the usual spots, the harbor, mostly touristy, the rehabbed yuppie neighborhoods with 20 somethings walking their dogs, the artsy section, the gay hill, the financial skyscraper vista. After we have driven through, around, and back around all these places Michael asks "how brave are you two?" I answer for both of us by saying "really brave, why". Michael explains that being a local he feels we should see ALL of baltimore, the good, and the bad. He takes a few turns and we find ourselves in "Pig Town", the ghetto. It is alarmingly obvious how racially divided the sections of the city are. Even more disturbing how typical they are of the socioeconomic stereotypes you would expect. At this point it is 11pm, there are elementary school kids running around the streets ambitiously involved in rowdy play. Large groups of teenagers cluster on the corners doing nothing much at all. Rows and rows of track houses apparently none with air-conditioning cause the occupants to escape to the stoops for some relief from the heat. When I ask about the crime rate Michael tells me that this part of Baltimore is regularly listed in the top ten most dangerous cities in America with a tinge of pride in his voice. There is no police presence. Instead there are surveillance cameras mounted on poles 30 feet above each intersection. Each camera has a flashing blue light announcing its existence. Instead of preventing crime, they film it. This may deter trouble within the invasive eye of the camera, but no doubt simply moves any shady activity to dark corners and alleys. The flashing beacons can be seen for miles in all directions creating a false sense of security. Before the imminent car jacking occurs we return to yuppieville and the red light district for cocktails to finish the night off. Drinks are cheaper here than Boston, I make up for it in quantity.